Meat isn’t required, but a high-quality flour tortilla is. The eggs are almost always scrambled, although there’s at least one example where they work when fried. The criteriaĪ good breakfast burrito can cure a hangover without sending you back to bed. Not everyone follows the rules, but in New York City, the scene has finally come far enough to crown a victor. Greasy, grated hash browns are required at spots inspired by San Francisco. Imported green chiles are a must at New Mexican restaurants. Restaurants that make breakfast burritos have blood pacts with Albuquerque and Austin San Diego and Santa Fe. To fulfill them, chefs import flour tortillas from out of state and put french fries where they previously didn’t belong. There’s a reason: Like the Chicago dog or chopped cheese sandwich, breakfast burritos abide by exacting, regional formulas that shift based on the origin of their maker. They’ve multiplied in recent years, especially between the liberal breakfast burrito hours of 9 a.m. If you didn’t set an alarm, you might have missed it: Good burritos, almost as good as those you’d find in San Francisco or Santa Fe, are showing up in New York City. This month puts the spotlight on breakfast burritos, a regional dish that has made local strides in recent years. Inspired by Los Angeles, Highly Opinionated is a series in which Eater NY writers debate a hyper-specific, often-debated food obsession in New York City.
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